Day 27: Extended Family

Growing up abroad meant that my immediate family was my only family. No grandparents or cousins; just me, my brother and my parents. My dad is an only child so he was used to this however with four brothers and a sister, my mom always felt alone. Regardless, we stuck together through the rollercoaster of life.

When we moved to Texas, my dad proclaimed that this was it… Where he wanted to plant roots.

I began really trying to form long-term relationships for the first time in my life and learned that there are some people who will love you despite your imperfections. People who will love you like family.

When I met George, I felt he was one of these people. We immediately bonded over love-hate relationship with LA and sharing our life stories was easy.

George is the kind of guy that gets along with everybody. He is charismatic, warm-hearted and optimistic. But his life has been an uphill battle and that’s evident when he loses his cool with a drunk who shouts out stupid things as we walk by.

I remind him that it’s his day off and spending time in a Guatemalan jail would probably suck.

We are on our way to the pool that I visited earlier in the week during my search for natural springs. Our group includes his wife, their nephews, his equally charismatic brother Eddie, his finance and a couple of the people they work with.

I’ve been invited to spend time with the family on Easter. They treat me like a big sister and no matter how many times I reach for my wallet, I’m reminded that my money is no good.

It’s a mostly cloudy day and the water is ice-cold. Music is playing, families are barbecuing and the beer is as cold as the water. Women are covered up and luckily I brought a pair of shorts. All eyes are on me anyway as the tourist taking photos and stammering to put words together to form sentences.

This is a relaxing getaway just outside of La Antigua and I’m glad I get to enjoy it with my brothers, their friends and family.

Another local getaway: There is another pool set in a lush forest in the mountains called Parramos that is about an hour and half away or so. You can take a bus to get there (Q8/$1). This is a large retreat featuring several food and booze vendors, a large lake with paddle boat rentals and a big pool. The bus situation is weird up there so be sure to confirm the bus direction before boarding or you will end up in Iztapa. Which is OK if you happen to arrive during a Mayan ceremony.

Photos

Day 26: What’s for Lunch?

Lunch @ El Prado//Carpets

I arrive at La Fonda to engage in another indulgence but unfortunately they require ID along with credit card purchases. I’m completely unprepared. I have a copy of my passport in the backpack I left at home.

Change of plans. I see that there is a procession in San Felipe so I head that way because there will be ambiance.

I’m running low on cash but I’m still under budget so I decide to try something else at El Prado since they accept credit cards.

I opt for frijoles Colorados with chicharrones and chorizo (Q60/$7.50). It’s crazy busy so I order guacamole and nachos/chips and a Gallo (Q50/$6.25) as an appetizer.

The dish is basically chili. The chorizo is really tasty but there’s so little that I felt short-changed. I had hoped for crunchy chicharrones but the gravy softened my pork bits. Regardless the chicharrones bring a nice smoke flavor to the dish so I dig in.

Immediately after the meal, I was ready to take a nap. I stopped by the church to check out the “float” but the procession is running behind schedule so I decide to go home.

There are far fewer spectators and carpets today so I don’t feel like I’m going to miss much. Any way, the beans are starting to take effect and I can’t wait to get home.

Day 25: Men In Black

On my way to La Merced to view the Act of Christ, I walk passed downtown Jocotenango and see numerous colorful carpets. They lead up the hill and towards San Felipe. I decide to detour and check out the creative artwork instead.

There are hundreds of people in the streets snapping photos of the homemade red carpet. Construction is still underway and it’s a family affair. Everyone pitches in to create unique professions of faith to God.

I follow the carpets all the way to San Felipe and see my friend George who is managing the parking lot today. He tells me that this is the biggest event next to Easter and that the procession will leave San Felipe at 15:00, go through Joco then through La Antigua.

It’s early so I walk to La Antigua then back through the horde of people in San Felipe on my way to Joco.

The burger joint that Lestor recommended is open (the owner has two locations and usually only opens this one at night). I order a double cheeseburger and a Gallo. Each patty is thin for thorough cooking so I imagine that there is less than a quarter pound of meat on my beefy sounding burger.

The meat is marinated in seasonings that taste like Worchester sauce. The meat is flavorful, the toasted bun is still really soft and the Gallo is cold (Q26/$3.25, Mundo Burger).

It’s 15:00 so the float should be on its way out of the church. I sit for a while and people watch.

I’ve seen a lot of processions and after nearly two hours of waiting, I’m ready to go home. Finally a huge plume of smoke fills the air and I can see the front end of the “float”.

The bearers wear black. Today is a day of mourning. The “float” features Jesus in a gold-lined casket. Surrounding him is an activity that shows the devil being tamed and angels crying.

The crowd is rather quiet. People make the sign of the cross as the procession passes in front of them.

Photos//Semana Santa: Procession
View//Semana Santa: Procession
View//Semana Santa: Viewing of elements Jesus suffered

Day 24: All Dressed Up, Nowhere to Go

[cincopa A8KA-lKOT8Uz]

Due for a micro-cation to shake things up, I decide to check out San Antonio Agua Calientes. I can’t find much on the Internet but George told me that he would take me there if I were staying longer.

What I do find on the Internet is mention of a hot spring and the only warm waterfall in the world… Sold!

I put on my bathing suit, get dressed, eat breakfast in Antigua then catch a bus to San Antonio Agua Calientes (Q3.50/$0.45 each way).

It’s a heinously overcast day and it’s also as humid as Florida in June. I’m starting to think that getting into hot water might be a bad idea but I’m committed to at least checking it out.

After 20 minutes, I arrive at the end of the line. The main park features a large church that plays music in between announcements. I look around but I don’t see anything about a waterfall or springs or anything remotely indicating that something special is in this sprawling town.

To get my bearings, I decide to follow the group of locals from the bus up a hill. I just want to survey the area before I start asking about this illusive waterfall.

I hike up to the top of the hill and a man asks me if I’m looking for the pool. YES!

I head in the direction, up another hill and there it is. A pool… literally a community swimming pool. Insert expletive here.

I ask the man collecting money where the warm waters are. He tells me that there are natural waters nearby but they are cold. Agua Caliente is just the name of the town.

I have to be in the wrong place. Looking around, I can’t see where I would enter the forest to search for the falls so I decide to abort my mission. I know that there are hot springs as volcanoes are everywhere but I might have to book with a travel agency to experience it.

San Antonio is a very tranquil town. There is a cute little textile market in the center of town for those in the market to buy beautifully hand-woven items. I did meet a seller who spoke English but I rarely travel with much cash so I didn’t get roped into buying this beautiful wrap that I had a hard time putting down (starting price Q150/$18.75).

Day 23: Procession-polooza

With three processions to view, I plan my route over lunch and decide to go from the eastern most church and work my way home.

Procession @ Escuela de Cristo

1. Escuela de Cristo
I arrive early but all of the “floats” are already surrounding the plaza for viewing prior to the procession. Each “float” portrays an image of Jesus taken from a story in the Bible. Many of the images look old and worn. A couple of guys work hard to spruce them up, but dust is all they can remove.

Kids for Christ

2. La Merced
I quickly check out the “floats” in the church and notice that the images are tiny. They are the smallest I’ve seen so far. I contemplate leaving and heading to the next procession but I decide to stay.

I notice a number of children in robes and realize that this is a procession run by kids. It’s too cute.

The “float” seems to be a lot lighter (with the pint-sized Jesus) than the traditional displays. The kids are eager to walk in the footsteps of their parents. The boys wear purple robes while the girls wear their Sunday’s best.

Formal Procession in San Felipe

3. San Felipe de Jesus

Before my maternal hormones get too out of whack, I dash over to San Felipe to view my last procession of the day. While I saw a procession here a couple of days ago, this is the formal event.

There are several “floats” positioned outside. I see my friend George (today he is ushering cars into a paid parking lot). His wife and I look for a spot in front of the church to wait for the main “float”.

It is massive. Sixty people hoist it into the air. The wooden figures are very impressive and well designed. Following the main float is a smaller one of Dolores held by women (most wearing high heels).

The procession passes in minutes and I’m still full from lunch so I grab dinner and a liter of Gallo then head home (carne adobado 25/$3.15, liter of Gallo 23.25/$3).