Day 29: Panajachel

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Lake Atitlan is majestic. After nearly three hours in a shuttle from Antigua (Q80/$10), I’m happy to be greeted with such a beautifully picturesque scene.

My hotel is just off the main drag and there is so much happening that I can’t wait to explore. I was hoping this would be a relaxing departure but so far it is far from that.

Sidebar: Utz Jay – the room is rather large, features a private bathroom with kitchenette and dining area. The aesthetic is a log cabin with a mix of wood and stone in the make up of the walls. The furniture is all the same color as the wood that makes up the walls and ceiling. Color is sparse with the highlighting being the blanket of the small bed (with bad mattress). I’m disappointed that not only is the Mayan spa under construction, there is also an additional fee to use it and the Jacuzzi and… and… and. Everything is a nickel and dime opportunity. Even though it’s off the main drag, I can hear a lot of noise outside and this dumb bird keeps trying to break through the window, so much for peace and tranquility. (rooms start Q255/$32)

There are a number of restaurants on the beach and I struggle to select one. They all feature the same cuisine, same food specials but my business goes to the nicest server/location with cheapest beer prices.

The view is breathtaking. I enjoy a lunch-sized portion of churrasco beef with rice, guacamole, veggies and tortillas with a Cabro (Q35/$4.50, beer Q10/$1.25).

I’m annoyed because I keep getting asked to buy something. It’s absolutely overwhelming. There are no tourists at the beach and I’m sure that’s why I’m the target.

A quick trip through the heart of the city reveals even more restaurants, bars and hotels. I feel like it’s a street corner in New York with 1/16 of the people. It’s absolute overkill.

I ask my server what I should see while I’m here and she recommends a chill trip to San Pedro. It’s accessible by boat (Q35/$4.50 each way). Unfortunately, that’s not in the budget so I plan to explore this tourist trap tomorrow.

Day 26: What’s for Lunch?

Lunch @ El Prado//Carpets

I arrive at La Fonda to engage in another indulgence but unfortunately they require ID along with credit card purchases. I’m completely unprepared. I have a copy of my passport in the backpack I left at home.

Change of plans. I see that there is a procession in San Felipe so I head that way because there will be ambiance.

I’m running low on cash but I’m still under budget so I decide to try something else at El Prado since they accept credit cards.

I opt for frijoles Colorados with chicharrones and chorizo (Q60/$7.50). It’s crazy busy so I order guacamole and nachos/chips and a Gallo (Q50/$6.25) as an appetizer.

The dish is basically chili. The chorizo is really tasty but there’s so little that I felt short-changed. I had hoped for crunchy chicharrones but the gravy softened my pork bits. Regardless the chicharrones bring a nice smoke flavor to the dish so I dig in.

Immediately after the meal, I was ready to take a nap. I stopped by the church to check out the “float” but the procession is running behind schedule so I decide to go home.

There are far fewer spectators and carpets today so I don’t feel like I’m going to miss much. Any way, the beans are starting to take effect and I can’t wait to get home.

Day 23: Procession-polooza

With three processions to view, I plan my route over lunch and decide to go from the eastern most church and work my way home.

Procession @ Escuela de Cristo

1. Escuela de Cristo
I arrive early but all of the “floats” are already surrounding the plaza for viewing prior to the procession. Each “float” portrays an image of Jesus taken from a story in the Bible. Many of the images look old and worn. A couple of guys work hard to spruce them up, but dust is all they can remove.

Kids for Christ

2. La Merced
I quickly check out the “floats” in the church and notice that the images are tiny. They are the smallest I’ve seen so far. I contemplate leaving and heading to the next procession but I decide to stay.

I notice a number of children in robes and realize that this is a procession run by kids. It’s too cute.

The “float” seems to be a lot lighter (with the pint-sized Jesus) than the traditional displays. The kids are eager to walk in the footsteps of their parents. The boys wear purple robes while the girls wear their Sunday’s best.

Formal Procession in San Felipe

3. San Felipe de Jesus

Before my maternal hormones get too out of whack, I dash over to San Felipe to view my last procession of the day. While I saw a procession here a couple of days ago, this is the formal event.

There are several “floats” positioned outside. I see my friend George (today he is ushering cars into a paid parking lot). His wife and I look for a spot in front of the church to wait for the main “float”.

It is massive. Sixty people hoist it into the air. The wooden figures are very impressive and well designed. Following the main float is a smaller one of Dolores held by women (most wearing high heels).

The procession passes in minutes and I’m still full from lunch so I grab dinner and a liter of Gallo then head home (carne adobado 25/$3.15, liter of Gallo 23.25/$3).

Day 22: Money to Burn

Day out: Dinner at El Prado, tres leches cake and coffee at central park

I review my spending budget and with eleven days left, I’ve managed to come in under budget most days leaving me some room to splurge. In less than a minute, I identify three things I absolutely want to indulge in (that won’t break the bank).

1. Dinner at El Prado in San Felipe: I eat in this area all of the time. This place is moderately priced but the most expensive.
2. Breakfast at Finca Filadelphia (coffee plantation between Jocotenango and San Felipe): This is a sanctuary not too far from my apartment. The view is amazing on a clear day but those days have been rare due to lack of rain.
3. Dinner or late lunch at La Fonda in La Antigua: If it’s good enough for Bill Clinton, it’s good enough for me. Surprisingly, this is not one of the most expensive restaurants in La Antigua. Most meals are less than Q100/$12.50.

Quick summary leading up to indulgence #1: Dinner at El Prado

1. Breakfast at my hotspot in La Antigua (Q12/$1.50).
2. Pick up and review schedule of events at the main church over coffee at a little people watching bar/bakery near the park (Q8/$1). I can’t wait to check out the reenactment of the crucifixion. Sounds gruesome but I wonder how it will go down.
3. Meet with my travel agent to schedule and pay for transportation to Panajachel (Q160/$20 roundtrip).

At El Prado, the restaurant opens into a huge covered alfresco dining area that features a small fountain, kiddie playground and grass-covered patio. There are several picnic tables within the eating area.

The breeze that blows through the open dining area is so cool and refreshing, the music playing is reminiscent of being in a tropical location and the beautiful landscaping makes it feel like you’ve been transported to that tropical place. I already feel like I’ve gotten my money’s worth on ambiance alone.

I know what I want and waste no time ordering Lomito (filet minion) medium with a Gallo (Q115/$14.50, includes guacamole, beans, corn on the cob, tortillas and tip).

It’s fantastic. Just slightly on the salty side but easily balanced out by the Gallo. No meat flavored gum action here, just straight up fantastic.

On my way home, I run into my hardworking friend George who is washing cars with his friend. There is literally nothing this kid won’t do to earn a dollar.

He tells me that he and his partner have been washing cars most of the day (charging Q20/$2.50) and so far he’s earned Q120/$15, which I share is what I just blew on dinner. He laughs but he’s so proud of himself and so am I.

It’s getting late so I tell him I’ll see him tomorrow during the procession plus another car has pulled up to be washed.

On my way home I stop at a bakery for a piece of tres leches cake (Q7/$0.90). I know that dairy is sort of a “no no” but it’s my favorite cake and it’s refrigerated.

It’s heavy on the whipped cream but the cinnamon and condensed milk combination hit the spot along with a half-cup of coffee (Q1.50/$0.20).

Day 20: Let the Celebration Begin

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Semana Santa is a week-long celebration of vigils and processions that lead up to Easter Sunday. While events take place on most days after Lent, the last week is when a slew of events take place throughout the city.

Since processions have been pretty similar in nature, I can’t say that I’ll be at every single one but I’ll try to keep it interesting.

The images above are from the Procesion de Jesus Nazareno (La Resena) at the La Merced church.

I thought that getting to the front of the line would be difficult but it was fairly easy snaking my way through the crowd to get good placement to see Jesus. Once the guards in purple come out… it’s over. You’re pretty much stuck where you are. They walk in such a way that is basically impenetrable. You pretty much have to beg them to let you through.

After the short procession is over (it’s slow moving but there’s just one “float” and a band), getting out is the hard part. Babies crying, people pushing and this isn’t even the biggest event of the week!