Day 31: How to Say Goodbye in Guatemalan

After a few minutes of yelling at each other over the loud noise from the street, Ms. Robinson shoos a sales girl away to make room for me to sit next to her. This doesn’t detour the sales girl who starts showing me her stash while I sip coffee at a café in the middle of Panajachel (Q7/$0.90 for a small amazing cup of joe and Q15/$2.00 for the hand-woven scarf for my mom/aunt/grandma that Ms. Robinson approves as a bargain.)

Ms. Robinson is an 86-year-young woman from New England who knows everything about everybody. We get into discussions about what I’ve observed and what she knows (or presumes). She points to people and labels them “retired and married to a local,” “sells drugs,” and “begs people for money but lives in a house nicer than the one she’s renting.”

We talk about everything from local politics to her life after the military. She is a firecracker who speaks fast and covers everything (and everybody) relating to Guatemala.

Every goodbye results in a new conversation about the “narco” buildings in Guatemala City to the photos of drug dealers in the newspaper. I have to run to meet my crowded shuttle.

Three hours later, we arrive in Central Park in La Antigua and I walk around to find a room for rent (Hostel Antigua, private room with bath discounted price Q128/$16 – Although not the cheapest room it’s extremely quiet and well-kept.)

I return to the Black Cat as promised and am immediately confronted by my entry Fun Friends. Most are rave reviews but a certain someone cannot get over being called “young at heart.” 😉

I grab dinner to go from Las Palmas (hamburger and fries Q58/$7.25 to go with my liter of Cabro Q28/$3.50). It’s mediocre at best and I swear it came with the “free” termite that is struggling to free itself from the caramelized onions.

The night drags on at first but then the music gets louder and so do we. There’s a new group of people and we all take time to get to know each other and make suggestions about places to visit.

My lovely friend Belgium challenges me to try a “crack whore”. It involves two glasses, a shot of Sambuca, a lighter, a straw and a prayer.

A couple of people are in a corner playing a Pictionary type game where they come up with a scenario and then judge who depicts it the best. I take a seat after finishing my first liter and my life story becomes the lightning round.

As much as we’ve had to drink, I’m completely impressed with all of them but I choose the winner for his organization and accurate retelling of the highlights of my life up to my next adventure… San Francisco. It’s the city that started my love for travel and my strength to do it alone.

Later… drunker… Rhode Island shows me to her favorite bar where the drinks are poured strong. The guys here are ready to mingle and it takes no time until they are buying us drinks and asking us to salsa.

I would share more if I could but there’s so little I remember.

Rhode Island drops me off at my hotel and I pass out with only three hours to sleep.

Check for photos tomorrow!

Day 30: Escape From Panajachel

I’m a sucker for a view and try breakfast at a restaurant on the water. For Q35 ($4.45), I enjoy a beast of a meal including homemade sausage, eggs, fried plantains, beans, rice, guacamole, crema, tortillas, fruit and coffee. It is absolutely worth every Quetzal and I don’t leave anything on my plate.

The water is calm so I double-check prices for public boat rides to neighboring cities. I find that the prices vary per destination and are lower than what my server shared yesterday.

In his early twenties, Sam is a boat captain who learned English on the streets. He tells me that the price to San Pedro is Q25 ($3.25) then offers to take a private boat (Q150/$18.75 or $20 USD) to Santa Caterina where life is more tranquil.

The sun is shining brightly and it’s a pretty hot day but walking seems like a better (cheaper) idea. I find out that I can walk to Santa Caterina (4k/2mi from beach) so I make my way out of the chaotic city and into tranquility.

The state flower must be ganja because I see several plants along the way. I wonder which came first, the hippies or the plants.

Finding access to the beach is difficult but I keep walking until I see someone detour onto a small dirt road. I quickly realize that this is an access road to private property. I pass the owner but continue until I reach the cliff.

There is a landing of grass shaded by trees and the only sound is that of the ocean. Absolute bliss. I lay down for a while and for the first time I let go and just enjoy it.

The owner is very nice older man with granddaughter in tow. He tells me that this is his place to enjoy the view but he lives in the house up the hill. I should have asked if he wanted to rent it to me. All I’d need is WiFi and a power source.

On my way back, I find a colorful crypt and get lost in the extremely narrow labyrinth that is Santa Caterina. While I search for beach access, a dog chases me out. Now I’m afraid of the strays and this town is full of them.

By the time I get back from my excursion all I want is a beer and guacamole (Q35/$4.50). My feeling of calm is gone thanks to Cujo.

Check back tomorrow for photos and video!

Day 29: Panajachel

Photos//

Lake Atitlan is majestic. After nearly three hours in a shuttle from Antigua (Q80/$10), I’m happy to be greeted with such a beautifully picturesque scene.

My hotel is just off the main drag and there is so much happening that I can’t wait to explore. I was hoping this would be a relaxing departure but so far it is far from that.

Sidebar: Utz Jay – the room is rather large, features a private bathroom with kitchenette and dining area. The aesthetic is a log cabin with a mix of wood and stone in the make up of the walls. The furniture is all the same color as the wood that makes up the walls and ceiling. Color is sparse with the highlighting being the blanket of the small bed (with bad mattress). I’m disappointed that not only is the Mayan spa under construction, there is also an additional fee to use it and the Jacuzzi and… and… and. Everything is a nickel and dime opportunity. Even though it’s off the main drag, I can hear a lot of noise outside and this dumb bird keeps trying to break through the window, so much for peace and tranquility. (rooms start Q255/$32)

There are a number of restaurants on the beach and I struggle to select one. They all feature the same cuisine, same food specials but my business goes to the nicest server/location with cheapest beer prices.

The view is breathtaking. I enjoy a lunch-sized portion of churrasco beef with rice, guacamole, veggies and tortillas with a Cabro (Q35/$4.50, beer Q10/$1.25).

I’m annoyed because I keep getting asked to buy something. It’s absolutely overwhelming. There are no tourists at the beach and I’m sure that’s why I’m the target.

A quick trip through the heart of the city reveals even more restaurants, bars and hotels. I feel like it’s a street corner in New York with 1/16 of the people. It’s absolute overkill.

I ask my server what I should see while I’m here and she recommends a chill trip to San Pedro. It’s accessible by boat (Q35/$4.50 each way). Unfortunately, that’s not in the budget so I plan to explore this tourist trap tomorrow.